camshaft identified

The left cylinder head was installed.
(note the bigger valves!)

The rocker assembly ultrasonically cleaned and fitted.

With the valve gaps set - then the difference in measurements relative to valve versus cam follower becomes more obvious.

It now looks more like the cam is a fast road piper cam.

The cam was set to full lift on the inlet of piston 1 by measuring start and finish point of the dwell angle (12 degrees) and setting the crank angle to halfway in between.

The cam is then disconnected from the sprocket and the crank set to 112 degrees ATDC,
The cam then reconnected and new yellow alignment dots added (will drill later)

Monitoring the valve and crank angle now shows a close approximation to the fast road cam spec 24-68 68-24







references
http://www.pipercams.co.uk/pipercams/www/tech_camshaft_installation.php
http://www.pipercams.co.uk/pipercams/www/tech.php

starter motor

The main bearings are hard to find because these engines have a centre bearing with integral thrust washer. Original supplier didnt have stock. So currently on back order with Burton.

Centre main bearing with integral thrust washer

It's raining outside so I don't want to work in the garage as the "lovely Sunbeam" would have to sit in the rain. So I decided to work on the starter motor. It has a cracked plastic terminal cap on the solenoid so thought I would repair it.

Dismantling was easy enough but the removal of the cap was more difficult as the coil wires are soldered in place. I thought the coil would come out with the cap. So managed to snap one of the coil wires. Clumsy oaf.

Repairing the wire is easy enough by crimping on a pin contact. The cap was repaired with some Evo-Stick "serious glue". Whilst inside I cleaned up the main contacts and rotated the moving contacts 180 degrees to balance the wear.

Once reassembled I thought I would test the solenoid. I assumed an earth on the case and a positive on the ignition switch would make it operate. But NO...
A little confused, and assuming I had broken it, I pulled it apart again. 12V across the wires and it works as expected.
Some investigation on the web revealed there are two coils inside. Hence the extra wire.

One coil is used to "hold on" the energised solenoid and is connected from switch input and returns via the body. But this isn't strong enough to pull the coil into place.

The second coil is strong enough to pull the plunger into place but doesn't use the return via the solenoid casing. Instead it returns through the main coil of the starter, then to the casing to the battery. When the solenoid is energised this coil is effectively switched off leaving the hold on coil to do the work.

The solenoid plunger can be tested but you need to apply 12V to the big contact and an earth to the switch (or vice versa).

Reassembly was easy enough, and bench test ran Ok.

The soldered coil contacts are shown as "A" and "B" above.
2 wires on "A" and one on "B" which is connected to the terminal 12V feed to the motor.

Now to do the Alternator....