Alternator wiring and Dynamo control box mod

Wiring in the alternator.

The main 12v cable was wired directly to the start solenoid and hence the battery.

The alternator was lamp feed was spliced to the wire that was on the D contact of the control box.

The original starter solenoid had already been adjusted so the 12V input was also directly connected to the pre-engage starter. So all the fat 12V cables are now on the same terminal.

The original solenoid is now used as an extra low current switch only to switch the pre-engage starter solenoid. To save on wiring mods. The manual solenoid button is useful.

The Dynamo regulator box was modified (dismantled) and the plan is to use it as a fuse box with two fuses using the F and D terminals as output links And also a mega fuse for the alternator.

A and A1 were soldered together inside to provide a link.





Alternator didn't work when the engine was started.


A Voltmeter was installed on the dashboard on the right hand
Ammeter position. This showed no voltage change when the engine was running and the warning light stayed on.

I had fitted a new alternator regulator about a year ago.
I removed the regulator and inspected the brushes, they were undamaged. The commutator also looked clean. But there are two finger contacts in the alternator that connect to the regulator by spring contact. I bent these outwards a little more and ensured they contacted the module in the correct place.

The next time the engine was started the warning light went out and the Voltmeter registered a steady 15V.

Success .

After a winter of problem starting I added a new starter cable direct from the battery to the starter motor. So the ignition and starter solenoid are now on a different circuit so not affected by any voltage drop along the main starter cable.