Converting the mechanical Tacho to electronic.
And swapping the bezel so it looks the same as it was.
I used an RVI guage from another machine and added the Spiyda converter.
Set it up for a 6 cyl system using the audio files.
Later I used a signal generator at the office to test the gauge on the main circuit. I added a switch to swap the input lines between the two options the electronic system operates on.
Will it work? When tested later on the car it seemed to be OK but the needle settled at 500 rpm when all powered off.
This was due to the mechanical pointer being balanced so the needle is effectively "weightless" and wont assist the return to zero.
I ground down the tiny brass counter-balance weight and now it falls to zero correctly and still works on the bench and in the car .
Trial fit of propshaft with new type 9 adapter and new bearings all-round.
With everything in the right place - it now looks like I will need to add 1" to the propshaft length for a final solution.
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