Cam gear endfloat "fix"

 Russell made me ring to add to the camshaft gear wheel.

The plan was to make it flush with the end of the cam gear shaft.

It is now bonded to the gear and the endfloat when measured on the engine is 0.05mm (with some of the float taken up with the lube) The tolerances are 0.02mm to 0.1mm.

I think its a Quaife gear but I can't find an adjustable version "on line" so don't know why the shaft is not right.
We tried to fit it in a combination of ways and this mod is the only solution that seemed to be right.

The previous owner had to grind down the bumps for the water pump bolts as they would contact the cam gear adjuster bolts. 3 of the bumps were ground down enough to break through.

minor repair attempted.

camshaft endfloat

While I was trying to determine the cam spec - I had noticed that there seemed to be excessive endfloat.

The thrust plate would not hold the cam in place and the only thing stopping the cam gear from grinding into the block was the camshaft end bearing core plug.

Eventually it was noticed that the cam gear shaft was the same diameter as the chamfered spacer.
The cam gear was removed (for the first time) and it was then possible to see the evidence that the original cam gear had a much larger diameter shaft.

If I reversed the cam gear on the cam then I was able to prove I would have the correct amount of endfloat.

As I haven't removed the gear or thrust plate until now - I haven't lost or misplaced anything. Note the Chamfered spacer is on the wrong way round in the photo.

I will try to make a bush to fit or find a suitable thrust washer.

camshaft identified

The left cylinder head was installed.
(note the bigger valves!)

The rocker assembly ultrasonically cleaned and fitted.

With the valve gaps set - then the difference in measurements relative to valve versus cam follower becomes more obvious.

It now looks more like the cam is a fast road piper cam.

The cam was set to full lift on the inlet of piston 1 by measuring start and finish point of the dwell angle (12 degrees) and setting the crank angle to halfway in between.

The cam is then disconnected from the sprocket and the crank set to 112 degrees ATDC,
The cam then reconnected and new yellow alignment dots added (will drill later)

Monitoring the valve and crank angle now shows a close approximation to the fast road cam spec 24-68 68-24







references
http://www.pipercams.co.uk/pipercams/www/tech_camshaft_installation.php
http://www.pipercams.co.uk/pipercams/www/tech.php

What cam is it!

I don't know what the camshaft is, I suspect a fast road cam.

It has a "P" and number 401 and 112.
I hope it means Piper cam
0.401" lift & 112 degrees inlet full lift.
But probably wrong.

I started by measuring the camshaft with the dial guage on the cam followers.

I got a 60 degree overlap and 173 degree duration.

I set the camshaft to be in the middle of the overlap at TDC






Then checked the timing again against the crank.
Measurements then didn't seem quite so obvious.

I began to worry I had a full race cam.
Thought best to install the cylinder head and measure on the rockers.

Tomorrow... maybe.

bottom end rebuild part one

                              Hurrah! the bearings have arrived.

Time now to install the crankshaft.

Note the areas where the crank has been smoothed.
Is this the result of damage being repaired or balancing?
There doesn't appear to be any other damage to the casing or bearing caps.

I used lubriplate on all the surfaces and storage oil as a coating.

Pistons were next to be installed.
Honing marks were still visible on the bores, so it hadn't been run for long before it was abandoned.

I might find out why later when I try to start it.



Now I'm stuck again as the camshaft sprocket doesn't have any markings on it. and I failed to notice when I pulled it apart. The camshaft is non standard. maybe a fast Piper road cam. Markings on the end are P 401 / 112. I will measure it tomorrow and attempt to set the timing from theory.

starter motor

The main bearings are hard to find because these engines have a centre bearing with integral thrust washer. Original supplier didnt have stock. So currently on back order with Burton.

Centre main bearing with integral thrust washer

It's raining outside so I don't want to work in the garage as the "lovely Sunbeam" would have to sit in the rain. So I decided to work on the starter motor. It has a cracked plastic terminal cap on the solenoid so thought I would repair it.

Dismantling was easy enough but the removal of the cap was more difficult as the coil wires are soldered in place. I thought the coil would come out with the cap. So managed to snap one of the coil wires. Clumsy oaf.

Repairing the wire is easy enough by crimping on a pin contact. The cap was repaired with some Evo-Stick "serious glue". Whilst inside I cleaned up the main contacts and rotated the moving contacts 180 degrees to balance the wear.

Once reassembled I thought I would test the solenoid. I assumed an earth on the case and a positive on the ignition switch would make it operate. But NO...
A little confused, and assuming I had broken it, I pulled it apart again. 12V across the wires and it works as expected.
Some investigation on the web revealed there are two coils inside. Hence the extra wire.

One coil is used to "hold on" the energised solenoid and is connected from switch input and returns via the body. But this isn't strong enough to pull the coil into place.

The second coil is strong enough to pull the plunger into place but doesn't use the return via the solenoid casing. Instead it returns through the main coil of the starter, then to the casing to the battery. When the solenoid is energised this coil is effectively switched off leaving the hold on coil to do the work.

The solenoid plunger can be tested but you need to apply 12V to the big contact and an earth to the switch (or vice versa).

Reassembly was easy enough, and bench test ran Ok.

The soldered coil contacts are shown as "A" and "B" above.
2 wires on "A" and one on "B" which is connected to the terminal 12V feed to the motor.

Now to do the Alternator....

Small steps (engine mounts)

A little extra travel for work is delaying the engine rebuild













The engine block has made it to the garage.
It's a tight squeeze to work on engine with the car in the garage.
The main bearing shells I bought seem to be wrong for this engine so the build didn't get far...

I did fit the Jose kit engine mounts.. to do something.
reference: http://v6alpine.blogspot.co.uk/p/installing-motor-mounts.html

Also purchased an "I" beam for £15 to install as a secure engine hoist with trolley and block and tackle.

V6 Jose Kit

The kit has arrived from Jose.

I have the T5 cross member which I will modify for the Type9 gearbox.

Also included are the engine mounts, alternator bracket, steering crossbar, and clutch mount.

The headers weren't included in the kit as the UK engines tend to be the two port heads but the US engines have the three ports.


reference: http://v6alpine.blogspot.co.uk/p/v6-joses-conversion-kit-kit-components.html 

I have the engine dismantled, cleaned and  mostly painted.

Just waiting for some more parts to arrive to then begin the assembly.

Note: I have decided to go for a carburettor conversion to make things a bit easier (cheaper) and look more in keeping with the period. 

Checking the Donor Engine

The engine looks a little worse for wear.

But it came apart easy enough.
The problem was no matter how much I took it apart
the lump was still too heavy for me to carry.

Even, just the block itself, I struggled with.
But I did manage to trial fit it in the sunbeam.
Albeit in the boot!

The heads went to southern-rebore services for unleaded conversion.
It turns out it can't be done as the head has extra large valves fitted.

I checked the Camshaft, Its a piper fast road cam.

Might be sportier than expected.

The engine doesn't look so big when its in the boot.

A V6 Alpine conversion kit has been ordered from Jose.
But at the moment TSB has lost the payment somewhere between here and the USA!

In the beginning

Introduction.

I always wanted a Tiger.
But the price always goes up and up, So...

I bought the series 3 sunbeam Alpine last July.
It had a later engine and automatic gearbox.
So I planned one day to add a type 9 gearbox and maybe change the engine for a V6.

When a gearbox came up for sale I bought it and found an engine was still attached..
A 2.8i Capri engine.
So I bought that as well. This has brought forward the plans.

 I've just ordered my V6 mod kit from Jose in the USA.

Currently dismantling the V6 cologne from a Ford Capri 2.8i.

Will I ever make it work?

who knows...